Color and dining on the North Fork
On the North Fork, you can indulge in a meal with a pop of color this season. If it feels like winter has been going on forever, these restaurants are proof-positive that a little time indoors is the perfect antidote for the northeastern blues. — and a taste of something undeniably delicious. As spring approaches, duck into one of these pretty little spots and treat yourself to a colorful dining experience. There’s no better time than now.
You’d be hard-pressed to find a more colorful restaurant on the North Fork than Greenport’s Lucharitos, the interior of which is candy-colored and joyful, not unlike the Jarritos Mexican sodas they serve. With walls painted in bright colors like orange and blue, this restaurant is a welcome respite from the bleak gray of winter. Even the tables are lacquered and decoupaged, themselves an homage to brighter, sunnier days. (Mattituck’s outpost, for what it’s worth, is equally colorful, with painted murals that offer a bright visual respite from whatever gray ails you outside.)
It’s hard to find more color than at Greenport’s The Frisky Oyster, where chef-owner Robby Beaver leans into the bold and the beautiful (decorative and detailed wallpaper in a red floral pattern provides an elevated backdrop to one of the North Fork’s most important restaurants). Although the menu is ever-changing, guests of this timeless spot can expect dishes that stick to the seasons, like a Montauk tuna tartare with avocado mousse; seared local sea scallops with mushroom risotto and a parmesan tuille; a miso-glazed halibut fillet with ramen, bell peppers, and mushrooms, served in a miso broth; and pomegranate barbecue short ribs, served alongside Swiss chard, oyster mushrooms, and a cauliflower purée.
Newly renovated and invigorated with pops of color (the interior is now color-drenched in a deep and satisfying blue), New Suffolk stalwart, Legends, embraces a cozy nautical theme throughout the dining room. Images of sailboats on a gallery wall are a welcome addition, as are menu items like warm bread and butter (courtesy of local bakery Blue Duck); Peconic Gold oysters on the half shell, served with a mignonette; mussels with harissa butter; tater tots with Japanese Worcestershire sauce; and a main course of Cajun tuna Niçoise. Although the ownership has changed, the vibes remain the same: warm and inviting.
And don’t overlook the petite Barrow Food House, a fast-casual restaurant in Aquebogue. Inside, color abounds, from the intricate tile work to the fabulous wallpaper that works as a beautiful accent. Rib-sticking food complements the colorful atmosphere. Delight in bites like the roasted garlic mac and cheese with toasted breadcrumbs and parsley; spaghetti squash latkes with sour cream and house-made applesauce; fried chicken thigh sandwich, topped with chili butter and Green Goddess slaw and served on a brioche bun; or a curry bowl, filled with chickpeas, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, kale, and Swiss chard, all in a coconut-curry broth over basmati rice.
