August is an underrated time to visit Paris. In that month, it seems as though half the city has decamped to the beach. The streets are quiet, the blare of traffic having given way to a kind of Sunday-morning hush. And speaking of mornings, one of the nicest ways to spend it is with a stroll around the Marais in the third and fourth arrondissements. Once home to one of the city’s largest Jewish communities, the neighborhood has in recent years been a center of gay life, and, more recently, the favored haunt of the fashion crowd. There’s great shopping, good food, atmospheric cafés, and cobbled streets. Here are our favorite local spots:

Two evenings a month an impressive form of dinner theater takes place in Greenport.That’s when Taylor Knapp, a young chef, commandeers the kitchen at Bruce’s Cheese Shop. Some might call the ensuing production a one-man show. Knapp calls it Pawpaw, a pop-up restaurant. The pawpaw tree, or asimina triloba, grows wild in the eastern United States. For just a few weeks each year, its branches bear a heavy globular fruit of the same name. For Knapp, the fruit’s fleeting appearance, and disappearance, is an apt metaphor for the essence of seasonal and locally-driven cookery. Virtually every ingredient on the changing nine-course menu, which costs $60--not including beverages, tax, or tip--has come from North Fork farms, nearby woods, and local waters.